Reading the post and speaking with Rich decided to replace the rear toe links in my garage.

Of course the basics are ignored and I’m sure there are other approaches and just wanted to share mine.

The air box is removed to give access to the locknut coming thru above the catalytic converter.

I removed the belly pan for a variety of reasons but not required, mostly being able to jack up the car and support it with a jack stand.

The wheel is removed, the brake pads and caliper, the emergency brake outboard section and pads, and the brake rotor.

Now I found something not mentioned in the maintenance manual or when stopping by a dealer not part of the parts manual.

There is a cover protecting the outboard end of the toe link held in place with 3 button hex head M5-0.80x10mm screws that have a coating of green Loctite on the threads. I show a photo of a hand held impact K-D tool that helps break fasteners like those loose.

Once the cover is off the locknut and bolt can be removed and the spacers on top and bottom of my right side outer toe link are anodized blue; but I still kept the upper and lower separate and returned them to the proper location.

I should also mention using a second jack with a hockey puck to raise the spindle assembly toe link to a horizontal position thinking it might put less stress on the assembly making it easier to slide out and replace.

Removing the frame side lock nut was a bit of a task using a 5/16 6 point socket holding the thread extension and a 18mm wrench.

Assembly was straightforward with only a minor amount of fiddling and care to get the outboard section in place with the spacers and the bolt through, starting the locknut and torqueing it to spec.

The inboard locknut above the catalytic converter in my opinion a bit slow. I could snug it with a normal wrench but reaching the desired torque had me order a snap on torque adapter on line. Had to do the extension formula to recalculate the torque wrench setting and was only able to get one flat at a time while tightening.

Of course I made some measurements of the old toe link length and adjusted the new piece close to that knowing a full machine alignment will follow.

Of course ordered a bag of 100 small screws and maybe won’t use but one or two.

Had to go buy the correct Loctite.

Main point is I’d be concerned about having anyone who hasn’t done some work on these cars tackle this job but it’s much easier than replacing the muffler if doing it yourself.